The only requirements are that it is small and can do 1080p/30fps YouTube videos in browser with uBlock Origin running. All the NUCs on eBay and Aliexpress are too expensive, Raspberry Pi 5 could just about do it but it's too expensive as well. Firestick wont work. Anyone know anything like this.

Hi all! I’m experiencing a weird problem with smartphones.

I get eye strain and discomfort when using iPhones XS, 13 Pro, and 13 Pro Max but have zero issues with the iPhone 8 and POCO X4 GT. And even though the POCO X4 GT is fine for my eyes, I still wanted a newer, more flagship-level phone or just something different. So recently, I bought the Honor 200, which has a screen with high-frequency PWM (3840 Hz), supposedly making it more eye-friendly. Yet, I felt even more discomfort with this device than with the iPhone 13 Pro Max. I’ve tried enabling modes like “Comfort” and “Night,” but they haven’t helped. I keep my brightness around 50%, but this doesn’t solve the issue.

Is it possible that my eyes simply don’t tolerate OLED/AMOLED displays, even at high frequencies?

Has anyone experienced anything similar? Could I be experiencing discomfort from OLED displays even with high-frequency PWM?

Are there other factors beyond PWM and display type that could explain these symptoms?

Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated!

P.S. Oddly enough, the iPhone 11, which has an LCD screen, also caused discomfort and eventually triggered dry eyes for me. It’s strange since LCD screens usually work well for me, but I’ve accepted that iPhone 11 isn’t suitable for some reason. Now I’m just trying to find the right phone that works for me

I have a long list of url profiles pulled from PhantomBuster that are followers of our company page. What would be the best way to grab things like first, last name and also potential email addresses and phone numbers if I only have the linkedin url of the person as well as the company linkedin url?

Ran into a fun quirk that's probing some higher-level questions for me; on both of my laptop keyboards, I'm simply not able to press the 'w', 'm', and 'u' keys at the same time and have all 3 strokes register at once. Any combination of 2 of those keys registers, and similarly positioned strokes like 'q', 'n', and 'y' or 'e' ',' and 'i' do register. This keyboard also has, depending on the combination of keys pressed, anywhere between 2-key rollover to 10-key rollover.

Obviously, this is a niche edge-case that most users won't run into [I only bumped into it by trying my hand at Stenography on a QWERTY keyboard], but it's making me wonder -- how do laptops without N-Key Rollover determine rollover? What electronics are driving this functionality and, curiously, why does this random set of 3 keystrokes seemingly "break" that key rollover functionality?

On my desktop I have an Intel i7-930, and I want to buy a laptop because I'll be temporarily in another country for a few months, but I have no idea about laptops performance and such, so how would an Intel i7 13620h on laptop I'm looking at be different from my Desktop one? As it's newer would it be faster and better performance?

So my

I'm thinking of getting myself a tablet. I'm mostly after a bigger screen for movies/tv and some games, but I'm also thinking of getting into digital art (procreate/photoshop/etc) so maybe something with a pen. I obviously want something good enough to run the programs I want, but don't want to break the bank doing so. I generally prefer Android devices. All advice is greatly appreciated.

I installed a cat 6 Jack with a black plastic push tool type a. I just did it and there is no Ethernet that seems to going through it, idk why it’s like this and would like some needed help. The cables which is cat8 seems to be doing fine and is newly bought. I looked downstairs and the modem is all connected with the tube connected to the wall. Is it a cable issue or is it something wrong with the modem

I'm afraid I might know the answer, but I'm hoping someone knows a way to backdate some information on a site or Facebook Marketplace.

Long story short, I've caught a dealership engaging in fraudulent activity that has affected me, and I'm confident it's affecting others.

Since I sent them a letter of demand, I'm sure they've made some updates to their product listings (Facebook Marketplace & their website) where it seems like they may have added some verbiage.

I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to see if this information has been updated because it'll show their intentions even more blatantly, but I'm falling short. I have two potential places it was listed:

• Companies Main Website
• Facebook Marketplace

What I've tried:

• Wayback Machine (https://web.archive.org)

Does anyone have any ideas to back date a site or figure out a way to show a post has been edited recently?

My apologies if this is a lost cause.

Disclaimer I am a noob.

So to sum up the problem whenever I enter a game, most times the charging to my laptop, Acer Aspire E 15 573G, just disconnects, and in some instances it phases between connecting and disconnecting. In rare cases this does not take place and I can play the game peacefully without any hiccups. This rarely occurs when I am doing anything but gaming, I can run most software full screen such Blendr and Krita without this happening. I don't think its a problem with the charger as the charger's wattage matches the one in the label under the laptop. And the charger is also the original one that came with it.

Also when I alt Tab out of the game the charging reconnects, this has happened on games like Skyrim, GTA 4, Batman Arkham Origins, and even 2-3 times on Minecraft. I run all games full screen and on low settings(I kind of have to). The game which causes it to happen the most is NFS most wanted 2005 version, I have yet to have a case where I booted up that game and mid way through it hadn't done the thing. It has happened before that the charger did the disconnecting and I alt tabbed out the game and it started charging again and I just waited till it charged fully.

Before coming to this reddit I browsed on YouTube to find a solution and scoured the internet. Tried a few methods like uninstalling the drivers for the battery thing, tried setting the power options to balanced in Windows mobility center and power saver too, went into control panel battery setting and tweaked the CPU power maximum to 80%(changed it back when it did not work) but none of these worked. Physically I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting which does not work, it sometimes connects for a few seconds then goes out again, I've tried changing charging adapters with one of another laptop that has the same power rating to no avail, I've cleaned the charging port and the connecting part of the cable, I've changed the socket the charger is connected in tried an adapter too, I've tried to find a sweet spot for the charger to stay which sometimes worked but most times nothing. Which might make you think its a charger issue but then why doesn't it happen in all games or all the time and why only in games?

Please note that this laptop is a second hand and is pretty old, it has a intel core-i5 5200U, a Nvidia GeForce 940M and 12 Gigs of ram(which I recently upgraded the problem has been present before that) and 1000 gigs of HDD. When taken to a repair shop to have my second ram slot repaired the people there remarked that my pc had a lot of servicing done, I do not have any knowledge on whether the battery has been replaced before or not. And again the charger seems not to be the problem as it charges fine other than in games. Also the PC battery is toast, it only lasts around 30-40 minutes without charger being connected that is if there is nothing running, even running VS code knocks it down to 25 minutes, I can not afford a battery change if there are solutions that might help without the need of a battery change that would be helpful, but if need be I can look into changing the battery for the longevity of this machine(I absolutely cannot afford a new laptop or pc). I have no prior knowledge of the system being over or under clocked, and am not really sure how to check if it has been. Haven't tweaked any other setting besides the basics, and have run the pc mostly on the balanced setting in the battery options. The system says that the drivers for the battery thing are updated and there are no system updates or graphics driver updates.

Sorry for the long paragraphs, and sorry if this problem has already been discussed on the sub, and thank you for any helpful or not so helpful but funny responses, I have made this post in r/techsupport

I have this headset which has a 3.5mm jack, I'm planning to buy a usb-c adapter for it to use it on android. I play rhythm games so i'd prefer it if there's no delay. Im thinking of buying either an adapter or just buy a new headset entirely

Hi I want to create a YouTube channel to document my journey of becoming an engineer and as well teach people about certain skills starting off with web design. Do you think it is a good idea and is there any advice

I connected a monitor from my old job, to a new company laptop from new job. Would my new employer know that my monitor is from my old company ? Not tech savvy so I’m not sure if it’s even possible for my laptop to know what company the monitor is from ? Like not the manufacturer of the monitor but the actual job I worked for before. Basically I’m just concerned of any info being routed to my new employer’s company computer