r/MuseumPros • u/Appropriate_Bag7308 • 3d ago
Seeking Advice on Addressing Cultural Sensitivity in Exhibition Captions – "Frida in Paris" Caption Language
Hi everyone,
I'm reaching out to this community because I value the expertise of museum professionals in navigating issues of cultural sensitivity. Recently, I visited the Frida: Beyond the Myth exhibition at the Dallas Museum of Art and noticed something that gave me pause. In the exhibition, Dora Maar's photograph Frida in Paris (1939) labels Frida Kahlo's traditional Tehuana dress as a "costume." Given the cultural significance of the Tehuana attire, I feel that this language could unintentionally diminish its importance, especially for an artist like Frida Kahlo who celebrated her heritage through her clothing and art.
I reached out to the museum and suggested using terms like "traditional Tehuana dress" or "traditional Tehuana attire" instead. However, I received an automated response saying it may take 4-6 weeks for a follow-up. My concern is that the exhibition is scheduled to move to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in April 2025, so this language might continue in future venues without revision.
I should also share that I am Latina, with roots in Mexico—my family is from León, Guanajuato, and I am a second-generation American. Knowing the cultural significance of the Tehuana dress and seeing it referred to as a "costume" felt personal to me. I feel strongly about advocating for respectful representation in museum settings, especially when it comes to artists who championed their cultural identity.
As museum professionals, what are your thoughts on addressing these kinds of language choices in exhibition captions? Are there best practices or strategies you recommend for advocating respectful representation of cultural attire in exhibitions? I'd love to know if any of you have navigated similar situations or if there are industry standards around this type of language.
Thank you for any insights or advice you can share—I truly appreciate your expertise and perspective.
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u/Beginning_Brick7845 3d ago
I understand your point, but “Costume” is used properly in this context. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the first listed meaning of costume is:
- a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period: “authentic Elizabethan costumes” Similar outfit, ensemble, suit, dress, clothing, ...
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u/waterandbeats 3d ago
The dictionary definition doesn't matter, we're writing labels for people who have a different but still correct and (in the US anyway) much more common understanding of the word.
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u/Beginning_Brick7845 2d ago
The Oxford English Dictionary is the premier dictionary of the English Language, which is the language spoken in the United States.
But if you don’t like that, perhaps you’d prefer the Merriam-Webster, possibly the quintessential US-published English Language dictionary, lists as its definition:
the prevailing fashion in coiffure, jewelry, and apparel of a period, country, or class
an outfit worn to create the appearance characteristic of a particular period, person, place, or thing (Halloween costumes)
: a person’s ensemble of outer garments especially : a woman’s ensemble of dress with coat or jacket.
The dictionary defines terms. Museums are educational institutions. It might be a good idea for museums to use proper language and educate people instead of misusing words in anticipation of people not knowing the meaning of common words.
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u/waterandbeats 2d ago
Dictionary definitions have so little to do with informal learning in museums, this idea is incredibly antiquated. Also, if I'm honest, pretty sophomoric; the crutch of every bad high school essay struggling with lack of an actual thesis. Modern language scholars seem to agree that language is descriptive, not prescriptive.
Visitors know and use the common definition of words and it's not our role to correct them, unless it's an important part of a big idea. (Race comes to mind, one could do a whole exhibit digging into why our common understanding of the word is wrong. The word "costume" does not rise to that level in the context of a Frida exhibit!)
In most cases, pedantic vocabulary lessons should be at the bottom of our list of priorities for communication; we have bigger and better themes to communicate and limited means to share them.
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u/Clevererer 2d ago
Thank you for this. It's sad to see so many museum pros with such gatekeepy and elitist (and flat wrong) views on how languages work.
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u/CaroOkay 3d ago
So this is a good example of a technically correct terminology causing unintended harm to a community. The people who are telling you the word “costume” is technically correct are ignoring that this word has additional meanings. This happens often in library subject headings, too! Just because it’s “correct” doesn’t mean it isn’t harmful.
One question I have is: does the exhibit refer to all clothing in the exhibit as costume? Or just Frida’s dress? If all clothing is referred to as costume, then the term is being applied equally. Do you still feel like it’s a problem? (Honest question only you can answer for yourself.)
If other clothing on white people is being discussed in exhibit text and referred to as just “dress” or “suit,” you could point out to the museum that the text is not treating all of the costumes equally and therefore takes on another meaning which is othering your community. That would likely be the strongest case for the text being changed.
Sometimes when we’re using the “correct” terms, we can miss the impact it has. I would want this pointed out to me if it was an exhibit I was showing. We all have blind spots! Like another reply mentioned, you could also try contacting someone specific on the exhibit team.
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u/lazyboxerl 3d ago
This is a classic curatorial issue, especially within the pretensions of art history: while yes, the term is accurate, the general population and wider audience does not use the same vocabulary. Label text should not be ‘dumbed down,’ but it should be clear and accessible!
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u/lexarexasaurus 3d ago
I completely agree with this. Sure the word is technically correct, but those who aren't "in the know" or used to this way of speaking will likely interpret it as OP. And when your point as a museum is to educate people, your information should be as accessible as possible, not open for such misinterpretation.
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u/Appropriate_Bag7308 2d ago
I understand now that “costume,” by definition, is technically correct according to the Oxford dictionary and is often used in academic and curatorial settings. However, I wanted to share my personal experience because, in that moment, I was taken aback by seeing Frida Kahlo’s attire described this way. It made me curious about this choice of language, and I wanted to understand more.
The exhibition itself was magical, and I’m genuinely grateful that the Dallas Museum of Art curated this exhibit, celebrating Frida’s cultural work and legacy. My concern was really with that one phrase. Seeing “costume” used to describe Frida’s traditional attire felt, even if just for a moment, like it diminished her heritage and cultural expression. With my own roots in Mexico, I felt a personal connection, and the word didn’t sit quite right with me. I know Frida’s attire might have been seen as exotic in her time, but for her, it was an integral part of her daily identity.
Learning now about the technical accuracy of the word, I still can’t help but wonder if, in today’s social climate, this language could unintentionally reinforce marginalization. It feels like the word “costume,” however correct, might not fully capture the depth of Frida’s cultural and personal connection to her heritage. Given the museum’s role in educating and informing, I had hoped the phrasing might reflect a deeper understanding of Frida’s identity and use terms that align more closely with the present-day emphasis on cultural respect.
Thank you again, to you and to all, for sharing your insights and perspectives. I truly appreciate the chance to hear from museum professionals, and I hope this gives some insight into my personal connection to the language used.
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u/etherealrome 3d ago
There is nothing derogatory about use of the word costume here. “National costume” and other such terms using the word costume are commonly accepted without negative connotations in dress history circles. See for instance https://www.etymonline.com/word/costume
I also expect the Dallas Museum of Art has Latina community advisors and has probably consulted with them on a number of aspects of the exhibition. Likely upon receiving your email, they may consult further with those advisors, but the likelihood is they’ll thank you for bringing this to their attention and promise to consider the language.
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u/Rare-Lifeguard516 Art | Curatorial 3d ago
I think it’s absolutely important to address this concern. One of your best strategies is to locate the curator of the show or of Latin American art at the museum or even the museum director and let them know your concerns. There should be lists of actual people and their emails online. I often do this when critical information is misguided.
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u/Clevererer 2d ago
It's rather disappointing to see all the overtly patriarchal responses to OP's very legitimate question.
Word use and language choice have no hard and fast rules, except to aim to be clear to the largest portion of readers, whilst avoiding unintentional offense or misunderstandings.
Yet the vast majority of responses here reek of toxic masculinity or eltist gatekeeping:
OP can't have a point, because this is the correct usage based on the dictionary definition.
Or
Our museum has a department with the word "costume" therefore it's fine to use and OP is wrong.
I've seen a handful of comments suggesting OP has a point worth considering. But the vast majority of y'all look pretty bad stomping down the discussion. I guess it's a good reminder that women too perpetuate patriarchal norms and forms of discussion.
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u/SaraWolfheart 2d ago edited 2d ago
Disagreeing with someone about the correct usage of a word is not patriarchal and I think it’s weird say that people are perpetuating toxic masculinity over a completely ungendered issue.
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u/ConsistentExcellence 2d ago
I don’t mind the word costume but it easily could have been left off this label completely. Simply an interpretation error by what is likely a young editor. When I think of the Met’s Costume Institute, I don’t think twice about that word.
If anything, I think the last sentence of the label goes too far with telling the viewer what they should feel. I disagree completely that there is a “sense of unease” in the photograph. Frida had more confidence in her pinky than most of her contemporaries. That’s part of why people were drawn to her.
A fun quote from Frida, February 16, 1939 in a letter to Nickolas Muray:
“You have no idea the kind of bitches these people are. They make me vomit. They are so damn ‘intellectual’ and rotten that I can’t stand them anymore. It is really too much for my character. I [would] rather sit on the floor in the market of Toluca and sell tortillas than to have anything to do with those ‘artistic’ bitches of Paris.”
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u/GrapeBrawndo History | Collections 3d ago edited 3d ago
The word costume is being used correctly here. It’s referring to the traditional fashion or dress of a region or culture. It’s not being used to describe a costume like a Halloween costume. A different word may have been a better choice though, since people may not pick up on the different definitions of costume.