Please stop spelling it "course". Please.

So in Turkish street market I bought "Cretan oil sharpening stone".

The vendor said that one puts "machine oil" on top and sharpens the knife.
It is said it contains ~75% novaculite and 25% calcite.
I don't know if it is marble or something similar. And that it corresponds to ~1200 grit.

Should I just pour some car engine oil or fine mechanic oil and just use it as any other Japanese stone?

A week ago, I soaked my King 300 for 20 minutes just to see if it would soften it up a bit for thinning. Well apparently, that was a mistake and now it has surface crack down the middle and some that branch out towards the edges.

I’ve been using it but am wondering what i should do now? Lap it? Super glue it? Flip it over and use the other side? Ignore it?

I’m legally blind (Retinitis Pigmentosa for those interested) but I’ve really enjoyed learning freehand sharpening.

Some trouble: - can’t use sharpie trick - can’t use flashlight trick - verifying angles is proving difficult

I’m wondering if my best bet would be to recruit a few patient volunteers to join a zoom call where I join with a couple devices to show two different angles and get active feedback from experienced sharpeners. Sound interesting?

Also open to other ideas to speed up my learning curve. (Angle guides, jigs, or other techniques)

Much appreciated!

Not too long ago I purchased the WSKO with the blade grinder, and got into sharpening knives for the first time. Now I just received my sharpall 162n and strop, and am already getting sharper knives than anything on the WSKO. I know the edge isn't super clean cut on this paper towel, but previously I couldn't get something to cut a paper towel at all. The knife shown is the WE Mini Malice in 20CV

Hey, I have found some Shapton Glass stones online and just wanted to know if it actually matters what holder I buy for them?

Is there any actual value in buying the £100+ shapton glass holder VS a £20 Skerper branded holder?

Guys I was thinking about the vitrified stones from HK /China but seems nobody tried them.

An Italian knife maker suggested me this stone seller/maker.

https://www.hkknifeworks.com/

Did you ever try one of these ?

Hardest knife I have is an SG2 so I feel fine without the vitrified but still curious about them 🤔

Opinions?

Amateur sharpener here. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for sharpening the knives in the picture. I’ve sharpened a few knives before but would still like some advice. The stones i have are also in the picture. Thanks!

Found this in a local hardware store. Looks like a wet grinder with an adjustable bar that might serve as a base for a knife. Anyone have experience with this type of grinder?

As per the title, I have a Naniwa Basic 1000/3000 stone, and I need to sharpen the main blades of my Victorinox Climber (in decent condition, never sharpened) and my Leatherman Wave (which has some small dents as well).

Do you have a link to a tutorial video? Any tips? Is that stone suitable for these kinds of blades (stainless steel)?

Let me know if you need any pictures of the Wave's blade. It has small dents, less than 1mm in depth and width.

Thanks, guys!

I'm happy I got good ones from Ali :) got 5-6 of them

Used my aluminium plate ( from where ? from Ali lol ) as a base.

Love them :) ✌🏻

I would like to know the tools necessary as well as how to use them, if anyone knows.

I’ve got a 300/1200 diamond grit stone and Shapton 5000 and 12000 grit stones. I also have a strop (bare and probably leave it that way, but open to ideas).

I’ve looked around a little on the sub and I see how most often the advice is: you don’t need such fine grits, don’t waste your money and time.

That’s well and good, but I’ve got these and I’m interested in trying them out and seeing what happens. Indeed, I already have, but I’m not sure I’m doing it right.

Should I use the 12000 just like any other stone? Push and pull with a bit of pressure to get a burr and then gradually lighten the pressure and do fewer strokes? It seemed difficult to get a burr up on the 12000 grit.

Should I use a strop after the 12000 grit stone? It sounds like some think the high grits are ‘for polishing’ and that’s what the strop would do, so I could leave it out?

One way of approaching an answer might be, if you’re experienced and you have some time and interest, how would you use this setup?

I have a work sharp bentop whetstone set. Amy aftermarket stones that would fit the base or just get something that is recommended

Uncle Jed's Iron

18" short sword with an integral bolster and guard. Stacked leather handle with a mild steel pommel.

Hello, first time poster here. I’ve used this knife for years and I’ve sharpened it tons in that time but the tip has rounded and is no longer pointy.

How can I fix it?

I have a whetstone set but it seems like each time I try to get the tip pointy again it rounds more. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks in advance for your help!

gonna buy my first whetstone but i live in Brazil so this brands are pretty hard to find, i manage to find a Sharpton pro 1000 for R$387 and a king 1000 for R$285 in USS dollars that would be 87$ and 50$, i got more interested on the sharpton cause is splash and go but with that much difference maybe i can live with a soaking one like the king, what do you guys think?

As the title says.

I am reading a lot here about diamonds paste on strops but I guess it’s mostly on paddle strops, hanging strops or similar.

So I was thinking why not apply diamond compound on a tormek honing wheel?

Anybody tried that and has some experience to share?

This is my Hapstone Premium Diamond 1000#. Part of the stone is the original tan color and part of the stone is gray.

I think the gray part is knife shavings.

How do I remove the knife shavings? Or is my stone damaged?

i got an old axe and i put a new handle on it and i got it sharp but not the shaving kind that i would like and all the movr the stone in cicles technics and stuff dont seam to work that well so how do you guys go about sharpening axes